Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
